Often separated by thousands of miles, Maurice Schutgens and his long-term girlfriend reconnect by getting lost in the Seychelles, an idyllic archipelago in the Indian Ocean.
Unabashedly beautiful, unapologetically wild and hopelessly romantic. These are just some of the phrases synonymous with the Seychelles, an archipelago of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean and a short stint from mainland Africa. Home to spellbinding beaches, remote jungles and secluded hideaways, no wonder Seychelles is favourite romantic getaway for newlyweds and couples.
Mahe Island
The heat and humidity hit us like a sledgehammer. We had arrived in the Seychelles, a place we had dreamt about for years. Our excitement at finally being here was heightened by the imposing green colossus of Les Dents which towers over Mahé airport. We picked up our pre-hired car, pulled into the sparse midday traffic and headed for the idyllic Anse a la Mouche in the southwest.
Right after checking into our charming wooden bungalow in a vibrant patch of forest, it was time to chase the sunset. Jorien, my girlfriend, and I have watched a thousand sunsets together and yet I desire to see a thousand more with her. We sat at the beach as the sun finally surrendered to the horizon, happy to finally relax and chat about everything and nothing. Shortly after, the stars appeared in the sky and then came the moon. Our first night at this dream location was magical, crowned by an exquisite candlelit dinner of fresh fish in traditional Seychellois creole style.
Trails and forest walks
The next few days passed in a daze. Viewpoints revealed isolated beaches and long forest walks ended at hidden waterfalls. There was so much to see that it was a complete assault on our senses. The stretch of coastline along Port Launay Marine National Park was especially wild. We went back on several occasions to just sit on a rocky outcrop overlooking the beach. In the background were green towering mountains and below, white caps of breaking waves hungrily advancing on the shores.
We were tempted to idle our days away, but Jorien and I often grow restless. Luckily, Mahé is an absolute hiker’s dream with an impressive network of trails. A relatively arduous 30 minute scramble goes up to the Morne Blanc viewpoint. The 45 minute trail along Anse Major that takes you high above the azure waters and down to a perfect little bay.
Praslin Island – photo UNEP
Praslin Island
After exploring the incredible beaches of Mahé, we hopped on a short 15 minute flight to Praslin. Our lodge was located high above the serene gold coast. It looked out over the picturesque St. Pierre Island which shimmered in the bay and made for excellent kayaking.
Praslin Island is dominated by the jungles of the famed Valle de Mai National Park where people flock to see the Coco de Mer. Centuries ago, when fishermen came across the nuts washed up on shore, they believed they came from underwater forests, home to terrifying sea monsters that preyed on unsuspecting fishers. True or not, seeing an endemic Coco de Mer was high on our to-We headed for Fond Ferdinand in the southeast of the island. Same nut, no crowds and significantly cheaper. As attractive as the nuts were, you’d be completely nuts to pay Ksh 35,000 to take one home!
No visit to Praslin would be complete without checking out the popular Anse Lazio, an award-winning stretch of coastline. It lived up to its hype but wanted to get away from humanity and find some solitude. An unmarked trail led from Anse Lazio through the humid forest and after a strenuous 1.5 hour hike, we crested the final rise. There, magnificently spread out below us was Anse Georgette. It sparkled in the sun with turquoise waters lapping powdery white sands. A lover’s paradise and there we lost ourselves in Praslin and in each other.
La Digue
It is only a 15-minute ferry ride to La Digue which is small compared to the other islands. With a population of only 2,000 people, its streets were awash with bicycles. Bicycles actually outnumber cars, reggae music blared from portable speakers and La Digue was the very definition of laid back.
One main road crosses the island. As you emerge from the forest, you feel the fresh ocean breeze on your face long before you see it. Then you emerge on Grand Anse, a spectacular stretch of coastline. Most visitors are so mind blown they simply collapse under the nearest makeshift palm-leaf shelter and go no further. We pushed on to Petite Anse and Anse Cocos, La Digue’s best-kept secrets.
While most beaches on La Digue are postcard perfect, a favourite for visitors is the easily accessible Anse Source D’Argent (ASDA). We arrived in the late afternoon to avoid the crowds and see the colours at their most saturated. Nowhere else in the Seychelles are the massive granite boulders as incredible as on ASDA. Long after the crowds left, Jorien and I strolled hand in hand barefoot on sands warmed by the sun. I couldn’t remember a time I felt happier.
The rest of our days in the archipelago were incredible. Snorkeling amongst reef fish, hiking and tucking into local food. The Seychelles really are a lover’s paradise!
