I’ve yet to find a road more beautiful than the one in Uganda from Masindi to Murchison Falls National Park. Like a scene from a dreamy motion picture, it’s a splash of green with a canopy above, dense, refreshing air, and—if you’re lucky—a glimpse of a giraffe or a band of antelopes.
Then comes the Pakwach Bridge, towering over the Nile—a place that always tugs at my history. Here, my ancestors parted ways, some settling in Kenya, others staying. When I reach Vurra’s final hills, descending into Arua, the city feels like an oasis—modern yet deeply intertwined with nature.
My arrival ritual never changes. My friends-turned-brothers greet me with the familiar Lugbara exchange: “Mi ngoni?”—“Ma muke!” Laughter follows, along with coarse jokes. This age-old greeting of Arua’s Lugbara people, a Sudanic tribe, is part of one of the most musical languages I’ve ever heard.
We head to Rojey Creamery, my go-to 24/7 spot since I first discovered it years ago. Inside, bold murals, warm lighting, and soulful music create an inviting atmosphere. I sip a cappuccino, soaking it all in.
A New Day in Arua: Food and Nature
As the sun rises, my first full day in Arua calls for food and nature. Breakfast is a feast—boiled maize, beans, pilau, spaghetti, caramelized onions, and avocado. All that? You might wonder. Yes, eaten communally with utmost camaraderie, paired with black tea. This five-star treatment comes from Joyce, a city legend in Indrifa, who serves this hearty anyoya from her backyard. Nearly everyone in Arua has tasted her cooking.
With full bellies, we head to Oluko Falls, a hidden gem just 10 minutes from the city. Once a local secret, its beauty captivated a missionary pilot who later bought land nearby, creating Arise Centre, a sanctuary overlooking the waterfall.
Evening and City Life
Back in the city, Hunter’s Nest is our evening retreat. Saturdays are special here—West Nile’s best pizza is served fresh, and we’ve become such regulars that the owner feels like family. As night falls, we retreat to House of Light, a hidden sanctuary with three self-contained mansions—perfect for our board game marathons that stretch till dawn.
As dawn breaks, I realize my time in Arua is only beginning—and I can’t help but smile. This city in the greenery stole my heart. The warmth of its people, the buzz, the live music, the food, the nature, the growing modernity—I could get used to this.
