Asmara is the epitome of an understated capital. Eritrea’s largest city, and a UNESCO World Heritage site, shares many of the best features of this remote, hermetic country: the increasingly rare allure of a place frozen in time, almost entirely offline, with the relaxed pace of a tranquil village and a rich architectural history that remains largely untouched.
Throughout your visit, you will notice the hospitality of the people, incredibly welcoming despite the country’s complex past, and the peaceful coexistence of three religions: Coptic Orthodox Christianity, Catholicism, and Islam. This harmonious relationship adds to the unique cultural fabric of Eritrea, a society that, despite its challenges, embraces diversity and community.
Morning
Start your day with breakfast at the Sunshine Hotel, a beloved institution just a 10-minute walk from Harnet Avenue, the city’s main street. After breakfast in their cozy dining rooms filled with warm red tones, embark on a walking tour through Asmara’s architectural museum of Italian colonial history. Highlights include futurist icons like the Fiat Tagliero Building, a gas station with a wing-like cantilevered concrete roof, and rationalist marvels like Cinema Roma and Albergo Italia – visiting the interiors of both is a must. Don’t miss the Art Deco gems like Cinema Impero and Caffè Crispi – one of the many old fashioned cafés where you can enjoy a mid-morning espresso and admire the stylish Asmarinos around. There is also room for some retro entertainment: the Asmara Bowling Alley is one of the few remaining manual 1950s bowling alleys in the world – please do stop and play a round or two here!
Afternoon
For lunch, head to “Spaghetti House” on Harnet Avenue: enjoy a steaming bowl of tomato sauce pasta while overlooking the main city theater. After lunch, venture to two unique sites: the Medeber market, a recycling metal market showcasing Eritrean ingenuity (here, everything finds a second life!) and the astonishing Tank graveyard, an impressive collection of war tanks and trucks from Eritrea’s liberation war – now charmingly overtaken by nature, with purple flowers and cacti springing everywhere.
Evening
As the day winds down, make your way to Ghibabo Restaurant for dinner: its outdoor space offers a lively atmosphere under twinkling lights, while the indoor wooden dining room is ideal for a cozy and elegant gathering. Choose between traditional injera or another round of delicious pasta, and for an after-dinner drink, nothing is better than Sunshine hotel and its cozy bar: it becomes a true hub of live music and buzz in the evening!
